30 Months in Iran
Strange stories from my time as one of the very few foreign correspondents living in Iran in the late 2010s, hoping to give a more rounded, human picture of the country.
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The heathens in the mosque
In search of a little spiritual salvation, I took a trip to Mashhad, Iran’s second city, and home to its holiest site, the Imam Reza Shrine. I was a little nervous — pretty sure that godless heathens were not welcome. I considered following...
Head-banging in Iran
The first metal concert I ever went to was, oddly, in Iran. This was no secretive underground affair: it was staged in a modern venue with tickets booked online. The band played loud and heavy (that’s the actual show in the video above): co...
Iran's paranoid self-destruction
Kerman: the road to nowhere
If Kaveh Madani hadn’t missed his plane back to Tehran, he would probably still be in prison today. By a fluke, he was delayed on his work trip and a carefully laid plan by the Revolutionary Guards was foiled....
The Frogs of War
One autumn evening, I went with my family to Mellat Park in north Tehran where celebrations of the 1980s war with Iraq were in full swing. They were indeed celebrations, for the Islamic Republic likes nothing better than its own wounds. A s...
A sweet, little 'Death to America'
Most Iranians, when asked, would get rid of their Islamic Republic rulers if they could. Many utterly despise the murderous regime that has turned a country known for its delicate, sophisticated culture into a by-word for religious thuggery...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Eric Randolph, AFP journalist. Postings in Iran, Turkey, France and currently East Africa bureau chief.
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