Andrew Groves: Menswear Systems
Andrew GrovesMenswear as a system of power: class, masculinity, visibility, discipline and belonging.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Freemium | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 67 | Founded | a year ago | Last Issue | 5 days ago |
| Active | |||||
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profandrewgroves.substack.comLatest Issues
This Used to Be the Future
Most garment labels tell you how to wash a garment; the one above told you where to be on 4 May 2004.
Sewn into a pair of denim jeans, it was not unique. In fact every single garment produced by Hussein Chalayan for his A/W 2003/4 collecti...
Can a uniform escape its history?
The uniform in Donald Trump’s post has a history, even if it has never been made. He shared the image on Truth Social on Sunday without explanation. What appeared to be an AI rendering showed the front and back of a man’s uniform with close...
Never for Leather
A black leather belt is probably the least remarkable item a man might wear. Almost invisible in its ordinariness.
Likewise, a pair of black leather boots have become another staple of a man’s wardrobe. Most of us have at least one or two...
Members’ Research Library
A curated route through the deeper research layer of Menswear Systems
Paid members receive access to existing research dossiers, archive-led studies and selected extended essays.
47 Mistakes
When Alpha Industries examined a bomber Vetements had been trying to manufacture in Italian factories, it identified 47 mistakes. It was made from nylon, had ribbed cuffs and waistband, a zipped utility pocket on the upper left sleeve, and...
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| Subscribers | Engagement | 73 | Monthly Web Visits | ||
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Professor of Menswear Systems. Director of the Westminster Menswear Archive. I work with brands, museums, and publishers on menswear, archives, and the politics of dress.
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