Menswear as a system of power: class, masculinity, visibility, discipline and belonging.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Freemium | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 62 | Founded | a year ago | Last Issue | 5 days ago |
| Active | |||||
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When Stone Island originally appeared in 1982, the embroidered compass badge was fixed onto the garments even if its position wasn’t. The badges seemed to wander around the front of the garment, appearing on a chest pocket, a hem edge or on...
Who Gets to Look?
One of the most unnerving scenes in Hitchcock’s film Psycho, a film obsessed with watching, is when Marion Crane is stopped by a highway patrolman. Having fled Phoenix and fallen asleep in her car, she is awoken by him tapping on the window...
The Menswear Nobody Saw
After a decade as director of the Westminster Menswear Archive, I find it difficult to enter any fashion exhibition without asking where the menswear is. Last week I visited V&A Dundee’s Catwalk: The Art of the Fashion Show which aims to tr...
The Suit That Disappears
Last Friday morning, Andy Burnham returned to Manchester wearing a dark suit, white shirt and tie. He was there to open No 10 North, an office intended to prove that national government could operate differently. After a week dressed for th...
When Umbro Won the World Cup
Before the World Cup final began last Sunday between Spain and Argentina, adidas had already won. Whichever captain lifted the trophy, the winning shirt would bear the brand’s logo. That victory had been secured before kick-off.
This might...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Professor of Menswear Systems. Director of the Westminster Menswear Archive. I work with brands, museums, and publishers on menswear, archives, and the politics of dress.
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