Menswear as a system of power: class, masculinity, visibility, discipline and belonging.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Freemium | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 70 | Founded | a year ago | Last Issue | 4 days ago |
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Through the Membrane
Chris Bonington in a Berghaus Trango, 1987.
In 1987, British mountaineer Chris Bonington went on tour wearing a Berghaus Trango.
Before Liam and Noel, before Shaun and Bez, a British mountaineer was already taking to the stage in what wou...
The Unreadable Man
What do you see when you look at this self-portrait of Andy Warhol? The fright wig, the almost fluorescent camouflage pattern across the face, the disembodied head emerging from a black void, the pale mask-like skin, the unreadable expressi...
You Didn’t Get It From Us
Perry Boy Floyd, Oi Polloi Deck-Out No. 423, 2026.
Two rugby shirts, one long-sleeved, one short. One Ralph Lauren, one Gramicci. A purple sweatshirt, an indigo parka, loose fossil-coloured Fjällräven trousers and a pair of burgundy Timber...
This Used to Be the Future
Most garment labels tell you how to wash a garment; the one above told you where to be on 4 May 2004.
Sewn into a pair of denim jeans, it was not unique. In fact every single garment produced by Hussein Chalayan for his A/W 2003/4 collecti...
Can a uniform escape its history?
The uniform in Donald Trump’s post has a history, even if it has never been made. He shared the image on Truth Social on Sunday without explanation. What appeared to be an AI rendering showed the front and back of a man’s uniform with close...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Professor of Menswear Systems. Director of the Westminster Menswear Archive. I work with brands, museums, and publishers on menswear, archives, and the politics of dress.
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