Reletter
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Flanör is a blog focusing on urban culture, architecture, food & drink, and nightlife in Istanbul and Turkey's other major cities.

Platform
Substack
PricingFreemiumPublishesWeekly
Issues65Founded3 years agoLast Issue12 days ago
Active

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flanor.substack.com
Artwork for FLANÖR

Latest Issues

A Leafy Oasis in a Desert of Skyscrapers: Esentepe Journalists' Housing Estate

A mobile fruit vendor sells his wares in the shadows of Gayrettepe’s skyscrapers.

On a busy corner just outside the metro in Gayrettepe, a two-meter fence around the perimeter of a high-rise construction site is plastered with a number of...

12 days ago
16
4

30 Kilometers and 30 Transit Stops for Çorum's Signature Meal

İskilip Dolması

The midsummer sun was blazing on an early Tuesday afternoon, relentlessly glaring over The City as it does in the middle of July. Hunkering down in my relatively cool apartment wasn’t an option, as the adjacent building is...

19 days ago
20
5

Brutalism and Antiques at the edge of Trump Towers

The Mecidiyeköy Antiques Bazaar (spot the ‘guard dog’)

An intersection of concrete and crowds, traffic and towering glass, Mecidiyeköy to many is an overwhelming, unfriendly district exemplary of Istanbul’s urban woes. Linked to numerous t...

25 days ago
18

All Eyes on Istanbul Film Series #7: Gönül Yarası

Dünya and Nazım.

Perhaps the last truly great collaboration of veteran director Yavuz Turgul and doyenne actor Şener Şen (their 1987 masterpiece Muhsin Bey was the inaugural feature in this series), 2005’s Gönül Yarası (Lovelorn) is among...

a month ago
12
1

An Evening With Afghanistan's National Dish in Zeytinburnu

Kabuli pulao at Afghan Pamir Restaurant in Zeytinburnu.

As the Marmaray suburban train heads west and emerges from beyond the Walls of Constantinople, it’s not long before it stops at the juncture of two very different worlds in the distr...

a month ago
17
3

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Authors

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  • Paul Benjamin Osterlund

    Paul Benjamin Osterlund is an independent journalist based in Istanbul.

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