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Investigations of Irish food

Jp McMahon

Substack on Irish food culture, its history and our investigations of contemporary Irish food at Aniar restaurant in Galway, Ireland.

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PricingOnly free issuesPublishesTwice weekly
Issues113Founded3 years agoLast Issue4 days ago
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Latest Issues

Boucicault after Beckett

After Beckett, we cannot watch Boucicault in quite the same way.

The disguises, miraculous escapes, threatened executions, hidden identities and last-minute rescues of The Shaughraun (1874) may appear to belong to a theatrical world far re...

4 days ago
4
4

Caraway Seeds

Caraway is one of those flavours that seems to belong and not belong to Irish food culture. It is there in the Irish pantry, in old seed cakes, breads, biscuits for cheese boards, located in perpetuity beside the mixed spice, the cloves, an...

13 days ago
38
11

For Bertrand Grébaut

Cher Bertrand,

I only met you once.

That is a strange thing to say about grief, or about influence. We imagine that influence comes from intimacy, from long conversations, from shared kitchens, from years of proximity.

Sometimes it doe...

24 days ago
36
7

On Meadowsweet

Meadowsweet belongs to the wet places of the late Irish summer. The ditches and the drains. The river banks. On the edge of the boggy fields of Offaly, or indeed among the damp meadows of Galway City and environs.

Its Irish name, airgead...

a month ago
35
8

Philip Glass, Wild Food, and the Repetition of the Irish Year

There is a moment in the music of the legendary Philip Glass when repetition stops being repetition.

At first, you hear the pattern of the piano, Glass’s “music with repetitive structures”. A few notes and a phrase turning over on itself,...

a month ago
18
5

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  • Jp McMahon

    Chef, restauranteur, and food writer. Writing on the experience of Irish food and its changing culture for future generations of Irish people.

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