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Artwork for Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical

Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical

John Middendorf

The history of engineered tools for climbing and alpinism (and some environmental rambles). (Looking for D4 portaledges? See bigwalls.net)

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Artwork for Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical

Latest Issues

State of the Art Climbing Gear, 1976

Tools—Introduction for Trango history series.

As climbing tools improved, so did the envisioning of routes up the tallest rock walls in remote mountain ranges, leading to the first ascent of Trango Tower in 1976. Let’s begin with a bri...

2 years ago
7
6

First ascent of Great Trango Tower (1977)

Photo and line drawn by John Roskelley of the first route to the summit of Great Trango Tower, 1977. The route starts from the Trango Glacier (lower part of the route not visible from this vantage further east on the Baltoro Glacier).

The...

2 years ago
7
1

Trango 1987(b)-3rd ascent Trango Tower

In 1987, remote big walls were coming of age—bold new lines up unclimbed walls in Patagonia, Baffin, Himalaya, and the Karakoram became objectives with varied styles, first practiced and mastered in local training grounds like Yosemite and...

2 years ago
4

overcoming challenges, the dignity of risk

As the individual towers of Trango gained names in the literature, the central tower transitioned from Middle Trango Tower to Great Trango Tower, while Nameless Tower became Trango Tower, soon after they were both climbed. Galen Rowell in p...

2 years ago
5

Golden Hook Awards

Double Pronged Hooks

While researching the referenced uses of the famous Whymper hook, I realized what a versatile piece of equipment it probably was during the dawn of technical rock climbing utilizing engineered tools in the late 19t...

2 years ago
2

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  • John Middendorf

    Climber, Designer, Inventor of A5 and D4 climbing tools.

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