
The history of engineered tools for climbing and alpinism (and some environmental rambles). (Looking for D4 portaledges? See bigwalls.net)
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As climbing tools improved, so did the envisioning of routes up the tallest rock walls in remote mountain ranges, leading to the first ascent of Trango Tower in 1976. Let’s begin with a bri...
Photo and line drawn by John Roskelley of the first route to the summit of Great Trango Tower, 1977. The route starts from the Trango Glacier (lower part of the route not visible from this vantage further east on the Baltoro Glacier).
The...
In 1987, remote big walls were coming of age—bold new lines up unclimbed walls in Patagonia, Baffin, Himalaya, and the Karakoram became objectives with varied styles, first practiced and mastered in local training grounds like Yosemite and...
As the individual towers of Trango gained names in the literature, the central tower transitioned from Middle Trango Tower to Great Trango Tower, while Nameless Tower became Trango Tower, soon after they were both climbed. Galen Rowell in p...
While researching the referenced uses of the famous Whymper hook, I realized what a versatile piece of equipment it probably was during the dawn of technical rock climbing utilizing engineered tools in the late 19t...
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The writers behind this newsletter.
Climber, Designer, Inventor of A5 and D4 climbing tools.
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