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Artwork for Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical

Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical

John Middendorf

The history of engineered tools for climbing and alpinism (and some environmental rambles). (Looking for D4 portaledges? See bigwalls.net)

Platform
Substack
PricingOnly free issuesPublishesTwice weekly
Issues113SubscribersRead bigwallgear.com

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Latest Issues

Recent posts by this newsletter. Browse the email archive.

State of the Art Climbing Gear, 1976

### Tools—Introduction for Trango history series.

5 months ago
6
6

First ascent of Great Trango Tower (1977)

Photo and line drawn by John Roskelley of the first route to the summit of Great Trango Tower, 1977. The route starts from the Trango Glacier (lower part of the route not visible from this vantage further east on the Baltoro Glacier).

5 months ago
5
1

Trango 1987(b)-3rd ascent Trango Tower

In 1987, remote big walls were coming of age—bold new lines up unclimbed walls in Patagonia, Baffin, Himalaya, and the Karakoram became objectives with varied styles, first practiced and mastered in local training grounds like Yosemite and ...

5 months ago
4
0

overcoming challenges, the dignity of risk

As the individual towers of Trango gained names in the literature, the central tower transitioned from Middle Trango Tower to Great Trango Tower, while Nameless Tower became Trango Tower, soon after they were both climbed. Galen Rowell in p...

5 months ago
4
0

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Authors

The writers behind this newsletter.

  • John Middendorf

    Climber, Designer, Inventor of A5 and D4 climbing tools.

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