Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Delivered weekly, always free.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 72 | Subscribers | Read | scienceofsurfing.com |
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Latest Issues
Recent posts by this newsletter. Browse the email archive.
Why is El Niño so hard to predict?
Forecasting is hard. Anyone who has planned a surf trip around a swell that evaporated, or skipped a day that turned out to be pumping, knows this. Even with satellites, buoys, and sophisticated models, predicting what the ocean will do day...
What is El Niño?
Peruvian fishermen noticed it over a century ago. Around Christmas, the normally productive waters off their coast would sometimes turn warm and the fish would vanish. They named the phenomenon El Niño, “the little boy,” after the Christ ch...
How much of surfing is actually surfing?
We oceanographers love decomposing things. Hand us a dataset of ocean temperatures or current velocities, and we’ll start breaking it into orthogonal modes that explain progressively less variance. The technique is called Empirical Orthogon...
How much do fins flex during surfing?
A few weeks back, we covered the German study that measured pressure on fins during surfing, recording up to 300 N of force creating lift during turns. But knowing the pressure acting on fins doesn’t tell us what happens to the fins themsel...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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