Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 90 | Subscribers | Read | scienceofsurfing.com |
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Latest Issues
Recent posts by this newsletter. Browse the email archive.
How do wave buoys work?
Wave buoys don’t look like much more than your standard ocean-floatin’ buoy, but they are clever little devices. Everything on the forecast page (height, period, direction, spread) can get pulled out of 30 minutes of one of these buoys watc...
What's the carbon footprint of your surfboard?
Wax up, strap on the leash, and click in the fins. Everything we need to go catch some waves was crude oil in a previous life. The foam, the resin, the wax, the leash cord, the fin boxes, and the fins themselves. Even the velcro on the ankl...
How much does wax weigh down your surfboard?
After a few months, wax on boards starts to resemble the layers of rock on the cliffside. Base coat from the day you bought it, a few sessions of topcoat applied with care, then that afternoon it sat in the car and melted flat. Another coat...
Why is the top layer of sand crunchy?
Growing up in Florida, two things about the sand stuck out: it’ll burn the shit out of your feet and the top layer has a thin crunchy crust. The first point is pretty easy to explain (it’s Florida), but the second is something a little less...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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