Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 114 | Founded | 2 years ago | Last Issue | 7 days ago |
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First Order: How much does rail shape matter?
Rails are sold in adjectives. A shaper will call one full, pinched, hard, soft, or boxy, and a surfer will say how it feels under the back foot. Numbers are pretty much absent from the discussion.
To quantify some rail properties, I took a...
What are Kelvin waves?
A Kelvin wave is a long wave held against a boundary by Earth’s rotation. It is a form of trapped wave, similar but distinct from those that led to my PhD in Oceanography. In the Northern Hemisphere, the Coriolis effect deflects moving wate...
How much rain actually makes it to the ocean?
The San Diego River at Fashion Valley normally carries about 14 cubic feet per second, a flow you could feasibly wade across. At 9:22 on the night of January 22, 2024, it was moving 2,830 cubic feet per second, roughly 21,000 gallons every...
How does bottom roughness affect waves?
A wave crossing a reef is losing energy the whole way in, starting well before it stands up and throws. You can feel the mechanism when the water down near the bottom surges forward and then pulls back, once for every wave passing overhead....
Why do A-frames make such good waves?
Now that we know the angle a wave breaks at has a large say as to how it rides, it is worth looking at a shape that reliably produces a good peel angle. When a bank is shallow in the middle, deeper on both sides, and curves back toward the...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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