Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Delivered weekly, always free.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 14 | Subscribers | Read | scienceofsurfing.com |
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Latest Issues
Recent posts by this newsletter. Browse the email archive.
How do swells interact with underwater canyons?
Consider Nazaré in Portugal, home to some of the biggest waves ever surfed, or Blacks Beach in San Diego. These legendary spots sit adjacent to large underwater canyons, and it's no coincidence that they catch oversized swells compared to n...
Why do waves break (mostly) parallel to the coast?
Ever noticed how waves seem to wrap around headlands or curve as they approach the shore? This phenomenon, known as wave refraction, plays a crucial role in shaping the waves we surf.
What is sustainability?
A word that's plastered on every product from surfboards to sunscreen. But what does sustainability really mean? And more importantly, how is labeling everything as sustainable preventing us from taking meaningful accountability and action?...
What causes rip currents?
Swimmers beware, the red flag is up and the currents are ripping. Surfers, enjoy the easy paddle out.
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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