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Science of Surfing

Kevin Okun

An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.

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Substack
PricingOnly free issuesPublishesWeekly
Issues99Founded2 years agoLast Issue6 days ago
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Latest Issues

Why is the water sometimes glassy after a set?

For our 100th article here, we’re going to try to answer this question that has been on my mind for about 5 years now. Or, at least we are going to start to knock out possible explanations. To my knowledge, this hasn’t been studied, so let’...

6 days ago
5

What makes the V shapes in the sand when waves recede?

Getting more into surf fishing recently, I’ve spent a lot of time at the water’s edge. Watching the waves come and go, I’ve seen lots of shapes form in the sand. Most are V-shaped, pointing away from the ocean and towards the shore. Looking...

13 days ago
2

Do offshore wind farms ruin the surf?

Wind farms are going up off both coasts, and the first thought for a small minority of the world is whether a few hundred turbines parked on the horizon will flatten the swell before it reaches the lineup. Whether the turbine stands on the...

20 days ago
4

What makes up a PhD in oceanography?

On Thursday, I defended my PhD in Applied Ocean Science at Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Starting during the summer five years ago, I moved to San Diego after deciding lab work would be more fun if it was focused on the ocean.

At Sc...

a month ago
8
2

What does a warmer ocean do to June Gloom?

The northeast Pacific is the warmest it has ever been recorded, but May Gray rolled in this year anyway, right on schedule. To me, that pairing seems off. We’ve pulled apart the marine layer before, and we’ve looked at how strange this year...

a month ago
2

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  • Kevin Okun

    Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.

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