Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 102 | Founded | 2 years ago | Last Issue | 5 days ago |
| Active | |||||
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scienceofsurfing.comLatest Issues
Why is water colder near the poles?
It’s well known that the poles are much colder than the equator, but some may not know why. I just surfed up in Big Sur with some friends and was that person that forgot their booties. After my claws thawed enough, I decided to write about...
Why do some waves hold you down longer than others?
Wiping out on an average day tends to leave the ocean spitting you back out pretty quickly. You’re wearing a few millimeters of neoprene, you grabbed a breath on the way down, and the water around you is denser than you are, so up you go. T...
Should you sharpen your fins?
Absolutely not. Inspired by the cut on my palm from catching my board after eating it, I had to think whether the fins that I have really need to be as sharp as they are. I can see the logic, sharp fins “cut” through the water, but that’s n...
Why is the water sometimes glassy after a set?
For our 100th article here, we’re going to try to answer this question that has been on my mind for about 5 years now. Or, at least we are going to start to knock out possible explanations. To my knowledge, this hasn’t been studied, so let’...
What makes the V shapes in the sand when waves recede?
Getting more into surf fishing recently, I’ve spent a lot of time at the water’s edge. Watching the waves come and go, I’ve seen lots of shapes form in the sand. Most are V-shaped, pointing away from the ocean and towards the shore. Looking...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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