Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 87 | Subscribers | Read | scienceofsurfing.com |
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Latest Issues
Recent posts by this newsletter. Browse the email archive.
Why is the top layer of sand crunchy?
Growing up in Florida, two things about the sand stuck out: it’ll burn the shit out of your feet and the top layer has a thin crunchy crust. The first point is pretty easy to explain (it’s Florida), but the second is something a little less...
Why is there more backwash at high tide?
Low tide beach break is generally forgiving. Waves crumble across a wide, flat stretch of sand before the swash reaches your ankles, and what returns to the sea is barely noticeable. But, if you’ve ever gotten clapped by some backwash at hi...
What causes seasickness?
Mal de mer, kinetosis, seasickness. Some of us are more susceptible than others and a friend of mine even feels it on a surfboard. What causes this gut-wrenching condition?
Why Do We Know So Little About the Southern Hemisphere Ocean?
About 90% of the global human population lives north of the equator. Ocean observations, for most of the history of oceanography, went where people were.
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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