Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 105 | Founded | 2 years ago | Last Issue | 9 days ago |
| Active | |||||
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First Order: How does the seafloor change a swell on its way in?
A long-period swell arrives facing the beach on both coasts. Getting there, the seafloor off New Jersey shifts it fifty kilometers down the shore, and the seafloor off San Diego leaves it almost exactly where it was aimed. It all has to do...
First Order: Which swell directions can actually reach your break?
Two breaks a few miles apart can read the same buoy and yet be nothing alike. One is overhead and lined up, the other is a letdown. I have driven past a firing break to go check a dead one on the same swell enough times to wonder why.
Ever...
How has the ocean changed in the last two years?
Two years ago this week, the first of these went out. In the time it took to write and send 104 of these, the ocean absorbed close to 40 zettajoules of heat. Since that is a meaningless number and a unit I have never heard of before this, l...
Why is water colder near the poles?
It’s well known that the poles are much colder than the equator, but some may not know why. I just surfed up in Big Sur with some friends and was that person that forgot their booties. After my claws thawed enough, I decided to write about...
Why do some waves hold you down longer than others?
Wiping out on an average day tends to leave the ocean spitting you back out pretty quickly. You’re wearing a few millimeters of neoprene, you grabbed a breath on the way down, and the water around you is denser than you are, so up you go. T...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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