Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 111 | Founded | 2 years ago | Last Issue | 8 days ago |
| Active | |||||
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scienceofsurfing.comLatest Issues
How does bottom roughness affect waves?
A wave crossing a reef is losing energy the whole way in, starting well before it stands up and throws. You can feel the mechanism when the water down near the bottom surges forward and then pulls back, once for every wave passing overhead....
Why do A-frames make such good waves?
Now that we know the angle a wave breaks at has a large say as to how it rides, it is worth looking at a shape that reliably produces a good peel angle. When a bank is shallow in the middle, deeper on both sides, and curves back toward the...
Why is peel angle important for surfing?
When a wave breaks, the thing running down the line is the breaking point, not the water and not the wave. How fast this breaking point moves down the line is the actual difference between a good wave for beginners, pros, or just a plain cl...
Do other kinds of waves break?
Surface waves break. It’s the whole reason any of us bother owning a surfboard. But sound is a wave too, and so is light, and it’s not obvious that they break. So is breaking something that water does, or something that waves do?
The defin...
First Order: Why is Black's Beach bigger than surrounding breaks?
Black’s Beach holds the reputation as one of the biggest and most consistent waves in San Diego. The explanation is the submarine canyon system just offshore, the Scripps and La Jolla canyons.
This piece is about measuring how that canyon...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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