Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Delivered weekly, always free.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 84 | Subscribers | Read | scienceofsurfing.com |
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Latest Issues
Recent posts by this newsletter. Browse the email archive.
Why Do We Know So Little About the Southern Hemisphere Ocean?
About 90% of the global human population lives north of the equator. Ocean observations, for most of the history of oceanography, went where people were.
Why Is the Ocean Warmer on the East Coast Than the West Coast?
Virginia Beach and San Francisco sit at nearly the same latitude. In summer, Virginia Beach water temperatures run around 24°C. San Francisco’s hover around 14°C. One is nice, the other is frigid.
Why is the Atlantic saltier than the Pacific?
The Atlantic runs about 1-2 parts per thousand saltier than the Pacific. That sounds like a rounding error, but it’s consistent across the entire basin and has held for as long as we’ve been measuring it. With the oceans connected, how is t...
Where Does Sand Come From?
Most of the sand on California beaches started as mountain. Rocks inland get broken down by physical and chemical weathering - freeze-thaw cycles cracking stone apart, rain dissolving minerals, roots prying open fractures — and the resultin...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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