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Science of Surfing

Kevin Okun

An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.

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Substack
PricingOnly free issuesPublishesWeekly
Issues93Founded2 years agoLast Issue8 days ago
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scienceofsurfing.com
Artwork for Science of Surfing

Latest Issues

Why does water drain out of your nose hours after surfing?

After a recent shore break-y day at Blacks, water up the nose has been in my mind. You know the deal: a few hours after a session, you’re at work or leaning over to grab your keys, and suddenly a small ocean drains out of your face, to the...

8 days ago
6

Why are seabirds washing up on California beaches?

Recently, Brandt’s cormorants have been walking up to people on California beaches, an odd behavior for these birds. The ones approaching beachgoers in San Diego County right now are mostly juveniles too weak to flee, often within a day or...

15 days ago
1

What do channels actually do under your board?

It might be embarrassing to admit: I ride a channel-bottomed board and I can’t feel them. The six parallel grooves cut into the back third of my board are doing something to the water flowing past, but whether they’re doing what shapers cla...

22 days ago
6
2

How do wave buoys work?

Wave buoys don’t look like much more than your standard ocean-floatin’ buoy, but they are clever little devices. Everything on the forecast page (height, period, direction, spread) can get pulled out of 30 minutes of one of these buoys watc...

a month ago
3

What's the carbon footprint of your surfboard?

Wax up, strap on the leash, and click in the fins. Everything we need to go catch some waves was crude oil in a previous life. The foam, the resin, the wax, the leash cord, the fin boxes, and the fins themselves. Even the velcro on the ankl...

a month ago
3

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  • Kevin Okun

    Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.

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