Science of Surfing
Kevin OkunAn oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Your Monday morning surf check.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Weekly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Issues | 96 | Founded | 2 years ago | Last Issue | 9 days ago |
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What makes up a PhD in oceanography?
On Thursday, I defended my PhD in Applied Ocean Science at Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Starting during the summer five years ago, I moved to San Diego after deciding lab work would be more fun if it was focused on the ocean.
At Sc...
What does a warmer ocean do to June Gloom?
The northeast Pacific is the warmest it has ever been recorded, but May Gray rolled in this year anyway, right on schedule. To me, that pairing seems off. We’ve pulled apart the marine layer before, and we’ve looked at how strange this year...
Why do long-period swells last longer than short-period swells?
Short period swells with some size have been really fun lately. If only they stuck around as long as the longer periods.
A 17-second North Pacific groundswell can hold waves at the coast for a week, the dominant period stepping down a seco...
Why does water drain out of your nose hours after surfing?
After a recent shore break-y day at Blacks, water up the nose has been in my mind. You know the deal: a few hours after a session, you’re at work or leaning over to grab your keys, and suddenly a small ocean drains out of your face, to the...
Why are seabirds washing up on California beaches?
Recently, Brandt’s cormorants have been walking up to people on California beaches, an odd behavior for these birds. The ones approaching beachgoers in San Diego County right now are mostly juveniles too weak to flee, often within a day or...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Oceanographer by day, also surfer by day. I write about the intersection of the two.
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