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SUB>SUMED

Ian Trowell

crossovers: subcultures, art, fashion

Platform
Substack
PricingOnly free issuesPublishesWeekly
Issues132Founded3 years agoLast Issue8 days ago
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Artwork for SUB>SUMED

Latest Issues

Raf Simons - High fashion, subcultures, anti-fashion

This final essay concludes my thoughts on Simons’ early-to-breakthrough years where he developed his interplay with subcultures of the past. The writing in this part covers his collections to 2004, at which point my involvement with selling...

8 days ago
2
1

Hull Fair

I am taking a small part in an exhibition at the HU3 Western Library in Hull. The exhibition looks at the massive importance of Hull October Fair, and how the community of Hull come out in force to dress up and support it. The principal pho...

17 days ago
5

Raf Simons - High fashion, subcultures, anti-fashion

The third instalment of the early story arc lands upon ‘Riot! Riot! Riot!’, possibly the most over-analysed collection of the designer in recent times. I’m not really adding anything apart from a ‘meta-critical’ position which looks at post...

24 days ago

Raf Simons - High fashion, subcultures, anti-fashion

Rattling along, here is the third installment which has a quick survey of Simons’ first ‘commercial’ collection ‘Black Palms’ and then a deeper drift in ‘Radioactivity’ which ends up as a deconstruction of the famous Kraftwerk sleeve. So so...

a month ago
4
2

Raf Simons - High fashion, subcultures, anti-fashion

Continuing with this. Part 2, which is actually part 1 of a study of Simons’ work around subcultural appropriation and ‘intermedial’ juxtaposition. This gives a quick guide to Simons’ background, his early years, his gradual assertion in th...

a month ago
2

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  • Ian Trowell

    Writer on UK subcultures, music, fashion, popular culture, art, media

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