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May's Postcard from Rome
A year ago today preparations were being made for the conclave which would begin on the seventh of May. One hundred and thirty-five cardinal electors gathered in the Sistine Chapel, the largest number of voting cardinals ever (at the time o...
Risorgimento Rome III
La Battaglia del 30 Aprile, 1849
This morning, as I rode my Vespa over the Janiculum, I chanced upon a ceremony at the Mausoleo Ossuario Garibaldino marking the one hundred and seventy-seventh anniversary of the battle of 30 April 1849 fou...
Bernini and the Barberini, an exhibition
Part I: Childhood, Boyhood, Youth
After the great success of the Caravaggio exhibition at Palazzo Barberini last year (about which I wrote this, no paywall), this year the ground floor space is home to a super show about another superstar...
Piazza del Campidoglio: Michelangelo, Marcus Aurelius, and the New Rome
This week the scaffolding is finally coming down from Michelangelo’s splendid facade of the Palazzo dei Senatori on the Capitoline Hill, which had me contemplating the hill as an exemplar of the shift in the focus of the city; from emperors...
April's Postcard from Rome
On Maundy Thursday, between tours and the pre-Paschal purchasing of suitably seasonal comestibles, I dropped by the library of the Senate of the Republic to see a tiny and exquisite recent acquisition by the Italian State. It is an Ecce Hom...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Qualified Rome guide specialising in personalised tours with over twenty years of experience. Native Londoner, naturalised Roman.
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