\ud83d\udc49 Telling the untold food stories of the Baghdadi Jewish diaspora — and exploring the Jewish Curry Culture worldwide — through recipes, memory, and migration, from Baghdad to Calcutta and the kitchens of Southeast Asia.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Twice weekly |
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| Issues | 284 | Founded | 2 years ago | Last Issue | 3 days ago |
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Of Madras
To me, Madras had always meant only two things: curry powder and checked handkerchiefs.
My father kept Madras handkerchiefs. I have some of them still.
I grind my own curry powder, so I have never been attracted by store-bought curry po...
Hari Kabab
We sat at the dining room table in our finest, eating in silence, contemplating the oncoming solemnity.
The dish in front of us was Hari Kabab: a whole chicken, browned and slow-cooked with whole potatoes in turmeric, coriander and cumin,...
The Kitchen Came First, Then God
When Ravi (Kumar) Shemesh’s uncle died this month, the family cooked pappu charu.
Pappu charu, the tamarind-soured lentil broth of Andhra Pradesh, simmering in the pot.
It is a sour lentil broth, made in nearly every household in coastal...
Harbin: The Community at the End of the Railway
The first Jew in Harbin arrived in 1899, a year after the Russian railway-engineering bureau moved there from Vladivostok to begin building the Chinese Eastern Railway. His name was S. I. Bertsel. There were forty-five Jews in the town by 1...
Two Friday night rices
There is a reason why I write so often about Yemenite food, and it is not only because I like it. Southern Yemeni stood at a hinge of the Indian Ocean, on the sea routes connecting India and Southeast Asia with Arabia and the Red Sea. Jewis...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Writer & culinary historian exploring Jewish food from Baghdad to Shanghai. Uncovering the lost Asian Jewish kitchen — where coconut milk, turmeric and kosher meet. Creator of Beyond Babylon.
I write and teach the food and food cultures of MENA, Singapore and Malaysia. My Substack, however, is devoted mainly to my long, nostalgic culinary affair with Singapore and Malaysia, with the odd detour when I feel like it.
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