👉 Telling the untold food stories of the Baghdadi Jewish diaspora — and exploring the Jewish Curry Culture worldwide — through recipes, memory, and migration, from Baghdad to Calcutta and the kitchens of Southeast Asia.
| Platform |  | Pricing | Only free issues | Publishes | Twice weekly |
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| Issues | 293 | Founded | 2 years ago | Last Issue | 12 days ago |
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The Red Sea on a Plate
My sister sent me a recipe idea for next week: Nigella Lawson’s tagliatelle with chicken from the Venetian ghetto, from her book How to Eat.
Dangerous thing that, because with me recipes tend to turn into essays, before they turn into foo...
Tass Kabab
I often go back to Mavis Hyman’s Indian Jewish Cooking, published in London in 1992. It is the main record of how the Baghdadi Jews of Calcutta cooked. At least that’s its reputation.
They were Jewish merchant families from Baghdad and ot...
Raisin d’être
In one of Zilka Joseph’s poems, a family sets the Friday-night table, lights candles and fills tiny cups with raisin sharbat until the drink spills into the saucers beneath them. It belongs to the Friday-night table as surely as the candles...
In search of the Perfect Potato
Running restaurants in Switzerland and Germany taught me how much of the meal the potato carries here.
In Baden it is Bratkartoffeln, Kartoffelpuffer, Kartoffelsalat and Schupfnudeln; across the Rhine it is Rösti. On the plate the potato i...
Taking Center Stage
Esther Victoria Abraham, known on screen as Pramila, in Bare Nawab Saheb (1944).
When Arjun Bali sent me Ravinder Reddy’s essay, “The First Miss India Was Jewish,” he asked whether I knew the women it mentioned. The names were familiar. Hi...
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Authors
The writers behind this newsletter.
Writer & culinary historian exploring Jewish food from Baghdad to Shanghai. Uncovering the lost Asian Jewish kitchen — where coconut milk, turmeric and kosher meet. Creator of Beyond Babylon.
I write and teach the food and food cultures of MENA, Singapore and Malaysia. On Substack, I lean towards Southeast Asia, but I do wander: ingredient histories, culinary deep-dives and detours into the wider food world I've spent decades teaching.
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